I Challenge you to a Dual

Jetski Batteries
One of the scariest things that can happen to you and your vessel is to break down and to be abandoned and lost at sea. Imagine drifting away from your colleagues, not a soul in sight, you press the start button and ….nothing! It's a spine chilling feeling...been there and done that. The ending to this story could be the exact opposite of a fairy tale ending that's for sure. However as they say -forearmed is forewarned. A little knowledge of what is happening when you push the start button or turn a key could save you from a breakdown or could indeed save your life. Battery technology has advanced with AGM Batteries providing ore cranking amps in the same size Battery Casing. Like most electrical parts however they can still potentially fail and definitely don't last forever.

Tip
Normal Jetski Batteries are Lead Acid which can be either sealed, maintenance free or have removable caps to refill with distilled water. There is also an option of a heavy duty gel battery which although costly can be a bonus due to the extreme vibrations a Jetski is subjected to. There is also the preferred Battery now available which is an A.G.M Battery. Advance Glass Mat technology which is now the recommended Battery for all Jetskis.

What's Happening?
Let's get a little bit technical for a moment and I will explain a little bit about your electrical system and how a little knowledge could save you, or save you a lot of time later. A 12 volt battery when fully charged should read 12.6 volts. When discharged it will be 12 volts or less. So before you even turn the key or press a start button your volt meter, Jet Ski consul, even your fish finder display can show your battery voltage. When travelling on the water your Batteries are charged by a voltage regulator which will increase the Battery voltage by at least 1 volt so your voltage will now read 13.5 volts to 14.5 volts. This indicates a healthy battery and charging system. When your voltage regulator starts to fail it may decrease slowly over time or just suddenly fail. Either way you will see a change in your Battery voltage via your chosen display. As soon as you see this change, call your buddy and head back to shore. Of course if you have a Dual Battery system fitted you can just switch over to your spare battery. More about that later in this article. So in summary keep periodically checking your chosen voltage display.

Tip
If you have a Battery Isolator change over Switch use it to test both batteries before you start your journey or before launching, also turn it to the off position when you have finished cleaning off your Jet Ski. This will protect the Fish Finder & GPS wiring circuit from premature failure.

Dual Battery System.
The answer to help you having Battery failure is to fit a Dual Battery system so that in the event your Battery fails you have a second option to get you out of trouble. What you have to avoid doing is to leave the Battery Isolator Switch left onto “Both” . The reason why I would not do this is because if your charging system fails both of your Batteries will run flat. This is because Batteries store the required power and then unless recharged will just rundown. If you find yourself in the situation where you can see that your charging system is lower than normal let's say 13 volts or not charging at all, less than 12.6 volts you must switch off as many unnecessary electrical accessories as possible for example Fish Finder, GPS, Luna Tubes if supplied by an electrical pump, live bait pump, and anything else you can think of to conserve voltage to get you back to shore. So before you leave home switch to Battery 1 and start your Jet Ski. Switch to Battery 2 and start your Jet Ski. If both start your Jet Ski you are good to go, knowing that you have a spare Battery should the first one fail.

The Battery Isolator
Your Battery Isolator is just a large switch which can be situated in a reasonably waterproof area of your Jet Ski ideally close to the Batteries. On a Yamaha this is often inside the rear compartment under the seat, and on a Seadoo in the glove box as this is close to the Batteries. The Battery Isolator Switch has 4 positions which are On, Off, Battery 1 (your original battery) and Battery 2 (your additional emergency Battery)

IMPORTANT
When going through the surf zone I would recommend you switch to “Both” Batteries so if one fails you will not breakdown in the surf zone. Get back past the backline and switch to Battery 1 or Battery 2. When you are out at sea swap over to the opposite Battery to both test it and to charge the Battery.

When fitting a Dual Battery System make sure of the following:
● The extra Battery you fit is at least the same capacity as the original one supplied by the manufacturer.
● Make sure that the new Battery is fixed in a permanent secure position. This is usually achieved by manufacturing a new bracket out of Stainless Steel. Fibreglass, or Aluminium.
● Make sure you fit a quality Battery Isolator Switch. There are a few types available.
● Position the switch so that it is easy to turn on and off.
● Use tinned marine Battery cable not copper Battery cable. Use the correct size cable. If you increase the amps increase the wire size.
● Crimp the Battery terminals properly with a heavy duty Battery terminal crimping tool not a vice. This will ensure you have a better contact.
● Cover all bare wires with heat shrink.
● Cover exposed wire and Battery terminals with dielectric grease or Battery Terminal connector spray to prevent corrosion.
I hope that's enough to convince you to fit a Dual Battery System if you haven't already.
That's all from me stay safe, Codfather.